I saw that pic on Facebook. Cool pic.
Student of the Game
I saw that pic on Facebook. Cool pic.
See ball, hit ball.
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I am not sure if this is the place to ask, but I figured with so many people here in the wood bat business, you guys may be able to help me. I am making a couple promotional wood bats for our summer team, I had some decals made with our logo to put on the bats. The instructions for the decals say to bake for 20 minutes at 300 degrees for max adhesion and scratch resistance. The bats will be used so I want the decals to stay on as best as possible but I am also concerned about baking part weakening the actual bat itself. Anybody think that 300 degrees for 20 minutes will hurt the bat?
Last edited by CoBaseballTraining; 05-07-2013 at 10:09 AM.
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300 degree oven for 20min would DEFINITELY dry out the wood. I would not advise that you do that. You should be able to secure the decals with something similar to 3M 77 Adhesive spray, and it should last.Originally Posted by CoBaseballTraining
The Grand Poobah of Sweat
I don't know much about this topic, but wouldn't the wood smolder and maybe catch fire at 300 degrees?
"Why not me?" - Dan Quisenberry
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wait, so you're saying to bake the bat with the decals on it? who has an oven that size???
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It is not a standard decal, it is a waterslide decal, so I think the baking essentially cures the ink to a harder finish. The bat will already be painted, if that makes a difference in the bat drying out.
My buddy has a screen printing business that has a big conveyor dryer that I was going to use.
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hey guys, i'm looking to pick up a few bats but im wondering if you know of any good deals. whats the cheapest bats you know of, that are still a decent bat? maybe around the 50 dollar range.
Student of the Game
See ball, hit ball.
Student of the Game
From and article on Yahoo Sports by Jeff Passan:
The foam is a new on one me. Those with inside knowledge, how wide spread is this?What, you think it's just pitchers? No, no, no. Hitters still cheat like mad, only they respect their predecessors' accomplishments enough to avoid doing stupid things like getting caught. One bat manufacturer recently described the advances in bat corking technology. Clubhouses place an order with a special code – usually an X following the usual model number. So if John Doe regularly swings a model 999, a group of corked ones – usually $125 a pop because of the extra labor – would be 999-X.
The point of corking a bat is simple: the heavier the wood, the harder it is, and the harder it is, the better it is for hitting. The problem with heavier wood, of course, is that batters can't catch up with fastballs swinging it. So to get the benefits of the strongest wood with a regular weight, the manufacturer drills through the top of the bat and sprays expansion foam inside.
"It never comes out," he said. "It's sticky and tacky and filled the gap. Expansion foam took out hollow sound. Rubber filament or bouncy balls – there are still gaps. Almost sounds hollow when you hit it solid. With expansion foam, none of that happens."
See ball, hit ball.
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I know Marucci doesn't get a lot of love on this thread, but check this out:
Marucci "Cutch22" model (Andrew McCutchen):
cutch22-prod.png
http://maruccisports.com/wood-bats/a...h22-maple.html
Looks like they went back to the burn ring at the end of the bats.
Student of the Game
Looks like an M356 with a C271 handle.
See ball, hit ball.
Registered User
the burn ring is a tight look and I'd like to try them again as I have some early days sticks from them that still kick ass!
that being said, at $120 a pop it has its risks! btw, anybody tried the Mizuno minor league ink dot retail bat C271 profile?
I got one for my lil brother in Virginia and he says its a quality bat. I have not squeezed the sawdust outta one yet.
Registered User
"The point of corking a bat is simple: the heavier the wood, the harder it is, and the harder it is, the better it is for hitting. ... So to get the benefits of the strongest wood with a regular weight, the manufacturer drills through the top of the bat and sprays expansion foam inside."
According to physicist Dr. Alan Nathan, it's not true that the harder the wood is, the better it is for hitting.
Nathan is arguably the foremost scientific authority on baseball bats.
In an email, he agreed with the following statement:
> --Differences in surface hardness are irrelevant because the species
> normally used (ash, maple, beech) dominate the collision with the ball
> of yarn (baseball). (If baseball were played with ball bearings or
> croquet balls, the answer might be different.)
Skip
Student of the Game
The harder the wood the less "trampolene effect" there would be, one would think.
See ball, hit ball.
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