Field Renovation

[Chris O'Leary]

My athletic association has just gained access to a baseball field that hasn't been used in 5 or so years and that has become overgrown. You can still see the infield/outfield boundary (the infield is mostly weeds), but it's in rough shape.

Anyone have any resources, links to resources, or suggestions for renovating a baseball field?

FYI, we will probably skin the entire infield so it can be used by multiple ages and for both baseball and softball.

[HYP]

Google search turface.com. I believe they have all the products you need and have hints on building a field.

[sid17]

Give this a try

http://www.ultimate-baseball-field-r...ion-guide.com/

[cartersball]

Chris,
Don't know what kind of spring weather you have in your area but here in NC we see a lot of rain. All of our LL skinned infields are plowed yearly by tractor so as to turn the dirt. The reason we do that is because when we originally built each field we plowed the dirt and mixed in a 1 ton dump truck load of brick dust. Brick dust dries really fast in spring rains. Most of the time after a quick shower the sun comes out and you can watch the steam rise off the infield and be ready to play in a hour with minimal effort. That is as long as the field is well maintainted, holes around bases filled, batters boxes holes filled, field raked and dragged after end of day each day. So I highly recommend the brick dust. After plwing and adding it we dig down about 1-2 feet in each batters box and around each base and pack in NC red clay. The reason for this is to allow for less dips/holes from players digging in or sliding. Lastly we cover the whole field in brick dust and level everything off, this is what really aids in drying quickly. Hope this was some help.

[Chris O'Leary]

Chris,
Don't know what kind of spring weather you have in your area but here in NC we see a lot of rain. All of our LL skinned infields are plowed yearly by tractor so as to turn the dirt. The reason we do that is because when we originally built each field we plowed the dirt and mixed in a 1 ton dump truck load of brick dust. Brick dust dries really fast in spring rains. Most of the time after a quick shower the sun comes out and you can watch the steam rise off the infield and be ready to play in a hour with minimal effort. That is as long as the field is well maintainted, holes around bases filled, batters boxes holes filled, field raked and dragged after end of day each day. So I highly recommend the brick dust. After plwing and adding it we dig down about 1-2 feet in each batters box and around each base and pack in NC red clay. The reason for this is to allow for less dips/holes from players digging in or sliding. Lastly we cover the whole field in brick dust and level everything off, this is what really aids in drying quickly. Hope this was some help.

Rain is definitely a problem. I was actually thinking about starting soonish because it's been relatively dry and the ground isn't hard

[Chris O'Leary]

So for killing all the weeds on a full-size skinned infield would you use...

1. Herbicide (Triox away from the edges)
2. Rototill
3. Sod cutter

[cartersball]

Depending upon the length of time it has been overgrown, I would probably use all three starting with the sodcutter and then the chemicals, followed by tilling it which could be down when you plow it if you add the brick dust. Another benefit of brick dust is grass won't grow back if you mix well with the dirt.

[Cannonball]

Chris, you have to be careful with any chemicals you put on a field. If certain people get ahold of any information that you used ... then they will turn you in to ... Believe me, we went thorugh all of this stuff when it was thought that we used some chemicals that were not to be used on surfaces where kids play. We didn't and all was good.

Chris, you can bet that in St. Louis, you'll have plenty of time to get the fields ready and they will be soft due to rain. Of course we always wanted to put bluff dirt on the fields in the fall to let the winter snows etc. settle the field. BLUFF DIRT is really good for drainage and works up well all year long. Of course it can get a little dusty about mid July. What we did to our fields is used turface and bluff dirt.

[scorekeeper]

Chris,

Not that the advice you’re getting isn’t good advice, but you’re looking in the wrong place for advice. The problem is, depending on the part of they country you’re talking about, what you do should be very different. Where exactly are we talking about.

For purposes of getting you the best advice possible, let’s assume the field were here in Sacramento. If it were, the 1st call I’d advise you to make would be to Chris Ralston, Manager of Grounds at Raley Field, our AAA team. There is no better source of baseball field information in the Sacramento area, and I’ve found him to be more than helpful. If there were a local ML club available, that would be the guy I contacted.

I’d also make sure to open a line of communication with the Ag dept over a UC Davis. Those guys can answer literally any question you could possibly have about a ball field in this area. Depending on where the field was in town, I’d make sure I got in touch with the head greenskeeper at at least a couple golf courses nearby. They often have equipment they might loan, or things like excess seed or fertilizer they might be willing to donate to a worthy cause. Also, the head greenskeeper will almost always be one of the most knowledgeable people about things having to do with turf maintenance.

If you have a local professional ball field, a local college, and/or local golf courses, trust me, take advantage of them and save yourself lots of anguish later on. And depending on the location, if it’s an area that gets a lot of precipitation, don’t skim on getting good drainage installed before you do anything.

[Chris O'Leary]

Not that the advice you’re getting isn’t good advice, but you’re looking in the wrong place for advice. The problem is, depending on the part of they country you’re talking about, what you do should be very different. Where exactly are we talking about.

I'm in St. Louis.

For purposes of getting you the best advice possible, let’s assume the field were here in Sacramento. If it were, the 1st call I’d advise you to make would be to Chris Ralston, Manager of Grounds at Raley Field, our AAA team. There is no better source of baseball field information in the Sacramento area, and I’ve found him to be more than helpful. If there were a local ML club available, that would be the guy I contacted.

Good idea.

[Chris O'Leary]

My first step is to do the old jar full of dirt and water analysis thing and see what I'm dealing with.

[Cannonball]

Chris, SK makes a good point. Even sides of the river are different. I started doing grounds at the ripe old age of 13 working under the CETA Program and Manpower Programs aimed at youth from poor economic areas and designed as early intervention to keep those said youth out of jail. It worked for me. In doing so, I've continued to work on fields the rest of my life. Even now, I help get the fields ready for my school in times of rain etc. On our side, turface and bluff dirt. ON your side, again as SK mentioned, you might want to see other advice. However, you do have access to bluff dirt should you wish to use it.

[scorekeeper]

Something a lot of folks don’t even think of, is that a project such as you’re talking about, can very well be one of those things businesses in the area are looking for to give money, equipment, or anything else of value to, especially if your assn is not-for-profit. And make no mistake, there will be some need for funds during the project.

For analysis, use the local colleges, or the county. I see that St Louis University has done a number of research projects in agriculture and horticulture, make them your friend. St Louis CC has a horticulture program. They might be a great source too.

I reread the OP and caught something that created a question in my mind. Were you planning on a permanent pitcher’s mound? If you were, I advise against it whole-heartedly. My advice would be to leave it flat, and buy or build all the different mounds for each baseball level you’re thinking about. Usually that’s 4. 46/60, 50/70, 54/80, and 60/90. I know for 46/60 it’s a 6” mound and for 60/90 its 10”, but to tell the truth, I don’t remember what those in between heights are.

Here’s an option to think about. I haven’t got any idea how good it is, but I heard about some time back and saved the URL.

http://www.sportsfieldspecialties.co...d=30&Itemid=61

Were you planning on breakaway bases for each of the field sizes? What are the plans for an outfield fence? Here’s a couple links for that.

http://www.outfieldfencing.com/?gcli...FR5HagodTxAKmQ
http://www.3tproducts.com/shop/pc/vi...?idCategory=40
http://www.sportfence.com/

[Chris O'Leary]

Something a lot of folks don’t even think of, is that a project such as you’re talking about, can very well be one of those things businesses in the area are looking for to give money, equipment, or anything else of value to, especially if your assn is not-for-profit. And make no mistake, there will be some need for funds during the project.

We are an athletic association for a catholic school. This will be a rec field for use by us and others in practice and games.

I reread the OP and caught something that created a question in my mind. Were you planning on a permanent pitcher’s mound? If you were, I advise against it whole-heartedly. My advice would be to leave it flat, and buy or build all the different mounds for each baseball level you’re thinking about. Usually that’s 4. 46/60, 50/70, 54/80, and 60/90. I know for 46/60 it’s a 6” mound and for 60/90 its 10”, but to tell the truth, I don’t remember what those in between heights are.

While I'd like it, because then I could use it for shooting my videos, we probably won't so that the field can be used by as many age groups as possible. I'm going to grade it mostly flat (but crowned out from the mound area for drainage purposes).

Were you planning on breakaway bases for each of the field sizes? What are the plans for an outfield fence? Here’s a couple links for that.

I would like to use breakaway bases.

There isn't going to be an OF fence because this is also a soccer field.

P.S. If anyone wants to see the field location via Google Earth, here's the address...

1420 S Sappington Rd, Saint Louis, MO 63126

It's located up on top of a hill/bluff above a flood plain.

[scorekeeper]

We are an athletic association for a catholic school. This will be a rec field for use by us and others in practice and games.

JACKPOT! Have the Vatican sell a DaVinci or Michaelangelo!

While I'd like it, because then I could use it for shooting my videos, we probably won't so that the field can be used by as many age groups as possible. I'm going to grade it mostly flat (but crowned out from the mound area for drainage purposes).

Not a problem! Make sure you build at least one 10” mound in one of the bullpens. FWIW, you might want to make a personal donation of a small roof over the mound and catcher so you could use it in inclement weather, which I know is a distinct possibility in St Louis.

There isn't going to be an OF fence because this is also a soccer field.

Too bad. A fence just makes it more fun for everyone.

[Chris O'Leary]

So I did a quick, stick a shovel full in a jar, add water, and shake like crazy soil analysis.

There's no sand and 90 percent of the rest is either silt or clay.

I have to let it sit longer to see for sure.

Will clay suspend in the water or will it clump and settle out immediately?

I ask because I found a clump of accreted clay at the bottom of the jar (5% of volume), but I'm not sure that's all the clay.

Either way, that explains why the field goops up bad when it gets wet.

[Chris O'Leary]

I did a quick soil analysis (put soil in a jar, add water and some soap, shake well, and see how it settles out in layers) and it looks like the soil is 85% light clay and maybe 15% silt. The recommendations I have read on the Internet say the right ratio is something more in the neighborhood of 30% clay, 45% silt, and 25% sand. The fact that there is basically no sand in the soil is going to make dragging and
leveling the field really hard on an ongoing basis. It's also going to cause drainage problems and general muckiness.

Since we are going to have to till the infield to get rid of the weeds, my thought is that we get 10 yards of sand and spread it over the top and then till that in. That way we deal with both the weeds and the soil composition at the same time.

Any thoughts from anyone?

CB, what is bluff dirt? Is that like top soil? I'm not familiar with the term.

[haganjp]

Will clay suspend in the water or will it clump and settle out immediately?

Clay is the smallest of the particles and will generallly suspend in water for some time before settling out. The clump that you found was probably due to insufficient shaking or stirring. It takes a long time for water to penetrate hardened clay.

We used to live in Maryland Heights, MO ... the soil was predominantly clay. It was tough to work with, but no where as tough as the red clay that you might find in the Atlanta area, which seemed to require a pick-axe in order to dig a hole.

[haganjp]

Since we are going to have to till the infield to get rid of the
weeds, my thought is that we get 10 yards of sand and spread it over
the top and then till that in. That way we deal with both the weeds
and the soil composition at the same time.

Any thoughts from anyone?

Not a good idea to till sand into clay. You'll end up with something more like cement.

Check out the following site ...
http://gardening.about.com/od/soil/a/GardenSoil.htm

[Chris O'Leary]

Clay is the smallest of the particles and will generallly suspend in water for some time before settling out. The clump that you found was probably due to insufficient shaking or stirring. It takes a long time for water to penetrate hardened clay.

We used to live in Maryland Heights, MO ... the soil was predominantly clay. It was tough to work with, but no where as tough as the red clay that you might find in the Atlanta area, which seemed to require a pick-axe in order to dig a hole.

I agree that I probably didn't shake it enough.

My clay is generally brownish black, but there is some of the more orange-y stuff in places. I assume that is fill that was brought in at some point.

I think the majority is clay because it settles out in about an hour but then compacts another 30% if you let it sit overnight.

[Chris O'Leary]

Not a good idea to till sand into clay. You'll end up with something more like cement.

Check out the following site ...
http://gardening.about.com/od/soil/a/GardenSoil.htm

I think we're also going to add top soil to the mix. Maybe overspread 10 yards of sand and 3 -5 yards of topsoil to try to get a better composition.

Then till it all in (and get the weeds out during the tilling).

The thing's going to be a bear to drag without any sand in it.

[songtitle]

Maybe artificial is the way to go

[Chris O'Leary]

Maybe artificial is the way to go

I wish.

I'd SWAG my budget at $500 to $1000.

[Chris O'Leary]

If you want to see what I'm dealing with, here are a couple of pics.





Anyone know what a light pole costs? I think we need to add one down the 1B line in order to play night games.

[songtitle]

Field lighting and other costs listed here.

$30,000 for lighting?