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Updated Baseball Fever Policy

Baseball Fever Policy

I. Purpose of this announcement:

This announcement describes the policies pertaining to the operation of Baseball Fever.

Baseball Fever is a moderated baseball message board which encourages and facilitates research and information exchange among fans of our national pastime. The intent of the Baseball Fever Policy is to ensure that Baseball Fever remains an extremely high quality, extremely low "noise" environment.

Baseball Fever is administrated by three principal administrators:
webmaster - Baseball Fever Owner
The Commissioner - Baseball Fever Administrator
Macker - Baseball Fever Administrator

And a group of forum specific super moderators. The role of the moderator is to keep Baseball Fever smoothly and to screen posts for compliance with our policy. The moderators are ALL volunteer positions, so please be patient and understanding of any delays you might experience in correspondence.

II. Comments about our policy:

Any suggestions on this policy may be made directly to the webmaster.

III. Acknowledgments:

This document was based on a similar policy used by SABR.

IV. Requirements for participation on Baseball Fever:

Participation on Baseball Fever is available to all baseball fans with a valid email address, as verified by the forum's automated system, which then in turn creates a single validated account. Multiple accounts by a single user are prohibited.

By registering, you agree to adhere to the policies outlined in this document and to conduct yourself accordingly. Abuse of the forum, by repeated failure to abide by these policies, will result in your access being blocked to the forum entirely.

V. Baseball Fever Netiquette:

Participants at Baseball Fever are required to adhere to these principles, which are outlined in this section.
a. All posts to Baseball Fever should be written in clear, concise English, with proper grammar and accurate spelling. The use of abbreviations should be kept to a minimum; when abbreviation is necessary, they should be either well-known (such as etc.), or explained on their first use in your post.

b. Conciseness is a key attribute of a good post.

c. Quote only the portion of a post to which you are responding.

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e. It is our policy NOT to transmit any defamatory or illegal materials.

f. Personal attacks of any type against Baseball Fever readers will not be tolerated. In these instances the post will be copied by a moderator and/or administrator, deleted from the site, then sent to the member who made the personal attack via a Private Message (PM) along with a single warning. Members who choose to not listen and continue personal attacks will be banned from the site.

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h. The netiquette described above (a-g) often uses the term "posts", but applies equally to Private Messages.

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Signature Composition
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Signature Content
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Please adhere to these rules when you create your signature. Failure to do so will result in a request to comply by a moderator. If you do not comply within a reasonable amount of time, the signature will be removed and / or edited by an Administrator. Baseball Fever reserves the right to edit and / or remove any or all of your signature line at any time without contacting the account holder.

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Most concisely, the test for whether a post is appropriate for Baseball Fever is: "Does this message discuss our national pastime in an interesting manner?" This post can be direct or indirect: posing a question, asking for assistance, providing raw data or citations, or discussing and constructively critiquing existing posts. In general, a broad interpretation of "baseball related" is used.

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It is considered appropriate to post a URL to a page which specifically and directly answers a question posted on the list (for example, it would be permissible to post a link to a page containing home-road splits, even on a site which has advertising or other commercial content; however, it would not be appropriate to post the URL of the main page of the site). The site reserves the right to limit the frequency of such announcements by any individual or group.

In keeping with our test for a proper topic, posting to Baseball Fever should be treated as if you truly do care. This includes posting information that is, to the best of your knowledge, complete and accurate at the time you post. Any errors or ambiguities you catch later should be acknowledged and corrected in the thread, since Baseball Fever is sometimes considered to be a valuable reference for research information.

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When a post is submitted to Baseball Fever, it is forwarded by the server automatically and seen immediately. The moderator may:
a. Leave the thread exactly like it was submitted. This is the case 95% of the time.

b. Immediately delete the thread as inappropriate for Baseball Fever. Examples include advertising, personal attacks, or spam. This is the case 1% of the time.

c. Move the thread. If a member makes a post about the Marlins in the Yankees forum it will be moved to the appropriate forum. This is the case 3% of the time.

d. Edit the message due to an inappropriate item. This is the case 1% of the time. There have been new users who will make a wonderful post, then add to their signature line (where your name / handle appears) a tagline that is a pure advertisement. This tagline will be removed, a note will be left in the message so he/she is aware of the edit, and personal contact will be made to the poster telling them what has been edited and what actions need to be taken to prevent further edits.

The moderators perform no checks on posts to verify factual or logical accuracy. While he/she may point out gross errors in factual data in replies to the thread, the moderator does not act as an "accuracy" editor. Also moderation is not a vehicle for censorship of individuals and/or opinions, and the moderator's decisions should not be taken personally.

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By submitting a post to Baseball Fever, you grant Baseball Fever permission to distribute your message to the forum. Other rights pertaining to the post remain with the ORIGINAL author, and you may not redistribute or retransmit any posts by any others, in whole or in part, without the express consent of the original author.

The messages appearing on Baseball Fever contain the opinions and views of their respective authors and are not necessarily those of Baseball Fever, or of the Baseball Almanac family of sites.

Sincerely,

Sean Holtz, Webmaster of Baseball Almanac & Baseball Fever
www.baseball-almanac.com | www.baseball-fever.com
"Baseball Almanac: Sharing Baseball. Sharing History."
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Discussion on Wood Bats

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  • Considering getting a CNC lathe. I was wondering if anyone here was familiar with the Motioncat TC650E. How is the Motion Cat CNC $57,000 new when all other true CNC's that most bat companies use are over 100K? I know it's made in the USA but that cannot account for a $40,000 difference. I could be wrong but maybe part of it is because there is only one main cutting blade? Also, where would one start to find a horizontal wood boring machine to cup bats? Thanks boys!!

    Comment


    • Most other companies are using lathes with at least 4 axis though most don't use all four. This lathe only has two axis. From the video's I watched it doesn't seem like a very quick machine, but with having to use a 1-2mm knive for the main cutting you have to go slow. Overall it doesn't seem like a bad machine just don't expect 600-700 bats a day off of it in an eight hour shift.

      I can't help you with the cupping machine, we built ours from scratch around 30-40yrs ago.

      Comment


      • I have seen cupping techniques at some bat companies ranging from the horizontal wood boring-type machines to simple drill presses and wood clamps. Some companies I have seen use a gram- or ounce-scale, and use the cupping to get the weight of the bat right. Others factor in the cup size and weight when selecting the billet before cutting a bat, then cup the bat after sanding.

        Comment


        • did the cupping spec change to 1 1/4" depth for this year?
          on espn, the reporter called the end cup "scooping"
          haha!

          Comment


          • Yeah, we use a very sharp ice cream scoop

            Yes, the spec changed to 1.25in to help knock off some more weight.

            Comment


            • Have you ever made bats for Ryan Howard or Jimmy Rollins. They seem to be very loyal to their brands and have wondered if they have ever ordered elsewhere.
              See ball, hit ball.

              Comment


              • Yeah, Ryan Howard ordered from us on a few occasions and Jimmy Rollins has off and on but nothing of late. We quit chasing Howard since his involvement with Marucci.

                Comment



                • What brand is this?

                  Comment


                  • Phoenix Bat Company, out of Ohio.

                    Comment


                    • I have purchased from Lefty at Phoenix Bats. I have a B356 and an S123. Both flame tempered with clearcoat. They look awesome. Lefty is a good guy to deal with.
                      See ball, hit ball.

                      Comment


                      • domingo now has his own bat.

                        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upn4OjDxitM
                        I now have my own non commercial blog about training for batspeed and power using my training experience in baseball and track and field.

                        Comment


                        • Entertaining.

                          I must add that I miss Granite Bats. Anyone else have one?
                          See ball, hit ball.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by dominik View Post
                            domingo now has his own bat.

                            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upn4OjDxitM
                            Looks like they based it off "The Torch" model. My son has one and really likes it.

                            Comment


                            • I have read this wonderful thread since page 1 and am now up to 158!

                              Firstly, I want to thank the wealth of information provided by the main resources of information, BMH etc... and also those asking the questions - fantastic stuff!

                              I just joined a 25+ wood bat league, after using wood in the (machine) cage for a year. I purchased a LS M9 T141 for $79.99 that I used for the majority of the year, but after my second practice with the team, it broke in BP!
                              I used my brand-new LS GI13EL MLB Player (bought the week before for $89.99) the rest of the practice, and used it once in the (machine) cage, and brought it to practice the next week, and it brakes in BP!
                              The bat was used for a week and a half!
                              I mean I know that wood breaks, and stuff happens, but what are the odds that two top of the line Louisville Slugger bats break within the same week, one of which is barely 2 weeks old and used 2 1/2 times?!

                              I seriously would love your guys' input on this matter, as I need to know what kind of wood to get. I loved the feel (while somewhat different) of both bats, and really enjoy the tradition of LS, but what gives?

                              Based on BMH's recommendation (pages ago!) I just put in an order for 2 Phoenix Bats (one ash 161, one maple I13) and I am really hoping for the best. I just can't afford to blow through wood like this at $80+ a pop (literally), even at $50, this would be ridiculous. I intend on saving one bat for gameday, but whose to say what can happen...

                              Any advice, comments or ideas would be much appreciated.

                              Thanks!

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by tomhagen View Post
                                I have read this wonderful thread since page 1 and am now up to 158!

                                Firstly, I want to thank the wealth of information provided by the main resources of information, BMH etc... and also those asking the questions - fantastic stuff!...............................

                                I seriously would love your guys' input on this matter, as I need to know what kind of wood to get. I loved the feel (while somewhat different) of both bats, and really enjoy the tradition of LS, but what gives?

                                Based on BMH's recommendation (pages ago!) I just put in an order for 2 Phoenix Bats (one ash 161, one maple I13) and I am really hoping for the best. I just can't afford to blow through wood like this at $80+ a pop (literally), even at $50, this would be ridiculous. I intend on saving one bat for gameday, but whose to say what can happen...

                                Any advice, comments or ideas would be much appreciated.

                                Thanks!
                                Tom Hagen: I'm going to make a series of statements about wood bats. In the interest of full disclosure, I'm the inventor and manufacturer of a laminated all wood bat, the PowerWood bat. Also, BMH (or anybody) may want to chime in if they see things differently. As far as BMH recommending you buy a Phoenix bat, I didn't go back and look but perhaps you missed in your reading that the "H" is for Hillerich. Thus his expertise on LS bats. Before making bats I was a master carpenter and designed and built homes for 30 years and learned a lot about wood in general. I've also coached the game for many years and focus on hitting and pitching mechanics. I have a son who pitches in college and one who plays in high school.

                                1. Every wood bat has just so many "bad" hits in it. Some more and some less depending on the piece of wood.
                                2. The forces in the bat/ball collision are huge. It only lasts one millisecond but averages 8000 psi.
                                3. If you hit the ball on the "sweet spot" of the bat all the time, your conventional wood bat will last a long time (generally).
                                4. As the contact point moves away from the sweet spot, either direction, those forces put the bat into sometimes catastrophic bending modes. (see high speed video from Baseball Research Center on my website)
                                5. All the maple and ash for bats come from the same general forests, mostly in the Appalachian range. Some areas may be more conducive to growing trees that are more favorable for bats but this can jump around as well depending on climate, soil types and mix of hardwoods in the area. No bat maker has a monopoly on "good" wood.
                                6. Quality of conventional wood bats depends more on the bat maker and how much time they spend "culling" what they perceive as good bat wood from "bad" bat wood.
                                7. Even with best efforts by a conscientious bat maker, it is still wood. It's not magic. If you hit on the label or on the end of the barrel, the bat can break and it doesn't matter if you spent $130 or $50. I've seen bats that cost $130 break in the first at-bat and $50 bats that lasted a long time. (see #3)
                                8. Learning to hit with wood if you've always used metal can be expensive using conventional wood bats due to the fact that you didn't have to "pay" for bad swings while swinging metal bats. You got helped out by NASA metallurgical engineers. Swinging with wood requires more emphasis being placed on getting the "right" part of the bat on the ball than does swinging with metal. The sweet spot counts more that just swinging hard. If you play golf, you know this.
                                9, I can't attest to the number but I understand that the average MLB players goes through about 100 bats per season. (Don't quote me on this)
                                10 You will hear guys swear by this brand of bat or that brand of bat but again, none of them are magic and unbreakable. This depends more on you. Baseball players like different bats for all kinds of reasons and some of them may be pretty strange. Don't try to figure it out. You'll pop a vein in your head.
                                11. The game of baseball should be played with wood bats. (Whoops, I devolved into opinion. I better stop)

                                I just want to shed some light on the world of wood bats so that you don't have unrealistic expectations. Just remember that when you get a hit with a wood bat, you really got a hit based on your skill with the bat and it just plain feels better.

                                Good luck in your journey.

                                Comment

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